You probably know the very basics of hair care, like cleansing with shampoo and adding conditioner as a final step, but have you ever stopped to think about if you know the basics for actually maintaining a full hair care routine? If you’re totally lost, don’t worry. We tapped hairstylist Cassandra Olivia to set you up with a simple hair care routine that is expert-approved. From how to wash your hair to brushing your scalp to help distribute the natural oils, we’ve got your complete list of simple hair care tips for beginners.
Cassandra Olivia is a hairstylist and colorist.
No, you can’t just empty your shampoo bottle onto your scalp, lather it up, and hope for the best. Instead of applying shampoo directly to your head, apply a quarter-size amount into the palm of your hand and rub your hands together. Olivia says this emulsifies the shampoo and helps create a small leather—basically, it activates the ingredients. After your hair is very wet (i.e. soaked), “use the tips of your fingers to massage the shampoo into your scalp and then gently pull the shampoo down your hair to the tips,” says Olivia. “Once you’ve fully lathered down to the bottom of your hair, rinse any remaining shampoo off your hands. Divide hair into sections and begin to rinse—start from the scalp and work your way down. Once you’ve rinsed, run clean hands through your hair to make sure you didn’t miss any shampoo.”
If you’ve made the mistake of applying conditioner all over your head (including at the roots), you’re not alone. According to Olivia, this is a huge no-no. “You don’t need to apply conditioner all over your head like you do your shampoo,” she explains. “Instead, apply conditioner starting at the tips of your hair and work your way toward your scalp, stopping a few inches from your scalp. This can help extend the life of your wash.” This is your time to use less product; it should be about half of the amount of shampoo you use. If you want to condition just once a week, try a deep conditioning mask that restores hydration in just one use.
If you have hair that tends to be on the oiler side, you probably thought washing it every day was the best thing you could do for your scalp health, but that’s not necessarily true. “Most people do not need to wash their hair daily and, in fact, over washing your hair strips it from natural oils that are essential for the health of your hair,” she says. “A general rule of thumb is that most people only need to wash their hair two to three times per week. If you have thicker curly or natural hair, you may only need to wash once per week.”
Just like the rest of your skin, your scalp has a natural pH, and if it’s thrown off, you might notice that it’s itchy, dry, flaky, or that your hair strands are looking dry and frizzy. To maintain your optimal scalp pH, Olivia recommends using shampoo and conditioner with cannabinoids, “as they help restore the natural balance of oils on the scalp and within the hair itself to repair,” says Olivia. We love the OUTRÉ BY USE ME Instant Repair Hair Mask + CBD.
If you ask most hair experts, they’ll tell you to avoid brushing wet hair at all costs. Your hair is in its most-fragile state when it’s wet, so it’s one of the easiest ways to avoid damage to your strands. Brushing your hair while it’s wet can cause rips, tears, and knots, especially if you brush wet hair without the help of tangle-free products or brushes. Instead, detangle your dry hair before you step foot in the shower, and you should be all set in its wet state (especially if you follow our gentle shampoo instructions from step one).
What’s better for the health of your hair than a brush? Easy! A comb. How cute is the REFRESHMENTS Tangles Be Tamed Comb in Darling Daisy?! “Use a wide-toothed comb to get out major snarls before you get your hair wet, and then either use your fingers to comb your hair after your shower or go back through with the wide-toothed comb,” advises Olivia.
Having curly hair requires a special set of instructions, but a general rule of thumb is to remain hands-off as your hair is air-drying. You want to create the least amount of friction possible to avoid frizz, and that includes your fingers or a brush. “If you have curly or coily hair, never brush your hair when it’s dry—you’ll create frizz and ruin the spiral of your curl,” says Olivia.
A dirty hair brush or hair tool could be the culprit of your greasy hair that appears oily even after you’ve showered. To clean hair brushes at home, you can create your own formula of a few drops of clarifying shampoo plus one to two teaspoons of baking soda in a large bowl or your bathroom sink. Soak your brush in the formula for a few minutes, and then scrub it clean with a clean toothbrush you only use for this purpose.
Did you know that the practice of hair oiling has been around for centuries? “It’s a cherished and ancient beauty ritual from India that not only uses time-tested ingredients to promote healthy hair, but is also a reflection of maternal bonds within families,” Michelle Ranavat, founder of Ayurvedic skincare and hair care brand RANAVAT, previously told IPSY.
Hair oil also adds shine, helps lock in moisture, and can help promote follicle growth, so adding one to your routine is a great idea. You can use hair oil as a mask before wash days as well. Just divide hair into sections, oil from the scalp down to the ends, massage it into the scalp, and seal overnight in a bun or braid.
Olivia says the ideal time to get your hair trimmed is once every 12 to 14 weeks, even if you’re trying to grow out your hair. “Regular trims will ensure that you snip off any split ends before they travel further up the hair strand,” she says.
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